Day 541 In Beijing: Derinkuyu: The Underground City.

 

Jill and me in the opening of Derinkuyu.

Jill and me in the opening room of Derinkuyu.

 

After we finished up with the balloon ride, Jill and I were picked up for our Red Tour.

There are four main tours, and they are all code named by color: Red, Green, and Blue.

We only did the red and the blue since we were limited to a few days and didn’t want to be totally rushed and busy.

We drove for about 45 minutes until w reached Derinkuyu.

It is an underground cave that housed up to twenty thousand people for a few hundred years.

Let me repeat that:  It is an underground cave that housed up to twenty thousand people for a few hundred years.

These cities were supposedly built in the 7th-8th century by the Phrygians and then later the Greeks inhabited them and turned some of the rooms into chapels as they were Christians.

The Christians stayed underground so they’d be safe from the Muslims during the Arab-Byzantine Wars.

The Christians also used it as protection during the Mongolian invasions in the 14th Century.

The cities are miles long and very deep into the Earth.

Up until the 20th Century, Christians were still using these cities as a refuge against the Muslim leaders and the Ottoman Empire.

There are stories that people would be elected to go outside, once a month, to see what was happening.

They would also have to bring out the dead bodies since no one else was allowed to leave other than during this time.

In 1923, the Christian followers were expelled and the cities were no longer used by inhabitants and seemed to be forgotten.

They were found when a villager was digging out a new room and broke through a wall in the 1960s.

They have now become a major tourist attraction for this area.

 

Day 539 In Beijing: Happy Thanksgiving!

 

Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!

Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!

 

This is Jill’s and my second Thanksgiving in Beijing, China.

It is a little weird.

All kinds of expats go out, party it up, and have fun.

Many of them aren’t from the USA but they enjoy having the community setting and just having another reason to have a nice time with others.

We decided to go to Shunjing Spa, near our apartment, with our friends Dorota and Francois.

They are both doctors where I work and wonderful people.

We’ve spent many a night sharing wine, cheese and Francois’ amazing home made bread.

The air quality was pretty decent, even though it was very overcast, so it seemed like a good day to venture out.

Both Francois and I decided to wear the silly little outfits they give to the spa members so we wouldn’t look out of place (sarcasm intended).

We noticed that when the four of us went into at spa pool, almost all the people in it would get out, and we’d be left alone in the pool.

Usually, that kind of thing would annoy me but it was sort of nice having all the different spa pools to ourselves and not have to deal with a crowded pool all day long.

After the spa, Jill and I met up with some other friends, from all over the world, for Thanksgiving at The Big Smoke.

Jill had her first meal in Beijing at The Big Smoke, and we did Thanksgiving there last year, and we thought it would be a nice way to celebrate.

It definitely was and the food, friendship, and conversation was fantastic.

Sadly, we forgot to get a picture of all of us together but there is always next year!

 

 

Day 539 In Beijing: View of Goreme from Our Room.

 

The entrance and dining room.

The entrance and dining room.

 

Jill and I truly loved staying at the Village Cave House Hotel and talking to Onur, who owns it.

Onur took it over, from his father, and now runs it with his mother and his brother.

Onur is about 30 years old and very calm and peaceful.

He exudes a feeling a friendship and tranquility no matter what is happening.

He seems to have found his calling and is content running this hotel and meeting people from all over the world.

I believe he also travels and is able to see how others live outside of his little town of Goreme.

It was great to just hang out with him, discuss the world, and get another view point on reality.

He, and his family, are continuing to build more rooms into the mountain and told us it takes a few weeks to get them finished because of the digging and then running electricity into them.

We wish him luck and look forward to staying there when we return to Goreme in the future!

 

Day 538 In Beijing: Sunset Over Goreme, Turkey.

 

The view from the platform above Goreme.

The view from the platform above Goreme.

 

Jill and I were excited about watching the sunset over Goreme since we had heard so many wonderful stories of this city at night.

Jill had been here before but hadn’t been here with me so it was new for her also.

We went up to the platform overlooking the city and just hung out, with other people, and enjoyed the beauty.

It is truly a magical place and it will always be remembered as the city where I asked Jill to marry me and she accepted as we flew across the sky in a hot air balloon.

One of the nice benefits of watching this video is you finally get to hear Jill speaking instead of me!

 

Day 526 In Beijing: Blue Tour In Cappadocia, Goreme Open Air Museum.

 

Just imagine living in these homes.

Just imagine living in these homes.

 

The last stop on our tour was to the Goreme Open Air Museum.

I didn’t take a lot of pictures here because we were pretty tired and there are a lot of churches.

Most the churches in this area don’t allow pictures inside so we only have pictures of the outside.

There are many paintings, and frescoes, on the Church walls and they are quite impressive.

However, many of them have the saints eyes scratched out through vandalism.

Also, the Muslim religion forbids the depiction of the human form, or icons, and supposedly they were afraid of the “evil eye.”

Considering how old these paintings are, and that they are not from the dominant religion in the area, it is rather amazing they are in the shape they are in.

We actually made one more stop, after the Goreme Open Air Museum and stopped by a Jewelry store.

Jill and I had wanted to buy her a ring and we wanted our guide, Sukru, to help us with the bargaining and make sure we weren’t ripped off.

We bought a ring, with a Zultanite stone, and it was gorgeous.

I’ll post some pictures of it, in the near future, as it is a stone that changes color with light (up to 6 colors that we’ve seen so far) and is only mined in Turkey.

 

Day 524 In Beijing: Blue Tour In Cappadocia, The Hall Of Rugs.

 

The Hall of Rugs.

The Hall of Rugs.

 

After seeing the women weaving the rugs, our guide took us down a long corridor best described as the “Hall of Rugs” sort of like the Hall of Fame.

They were incredible.

He told us more about the history of rug making in Turkey and the conditions the women used to work in and how they are better now.

He also told us that he loves his job and enjoys being able to show people this amazing art each and every day.

When he spoke, you could hear the pride in his words and see it in his eyes.

This is someone who had found a job that he loved and was very proud of doing when he woke up.

As we walked into the Hall of Rugs, Jill and I noticed a rather obvious sign stating that “No pictures and no videos.”

We looked at our guide and asked, “So we aren’t allowed to take pictures in this hall?” in hopes that he’d let it slide.

He looked at us, smiled, and said, “Oh, you can take all the pictures you want.  We just don’t allow Chinese people to take pictures.”

Jill and I guessed the reason why, as we’ve been living in China for just over a year, but wanted to hear what our guide’s reason was just in case we were wrong.

He added, “They come on the tour, take pictures, and then copy them with inferior quality and material.  It has happened so often that we can not allow them to take pictures anymore.  We have no problem with anyone else taking pictures.”

Jill and I laughed at the absurd reality of the situation and started taking a few pictures just to document our trip through the Hall without being obvious or rude.

It is about fitting in, for us, as we like to be tourists but also want to be the kind of tourists that aren’t that noticeable all the time.

There is no way I can show, through pictures, the incredible detail and exquisite workmanship of these rugs.

You have to visit Turkey yourself to see, and understand, them and how the culture informs their artwork.

 

 

Day 521 In Beijing: Blue Tour In Cappadocia, Lunch time!

 

A vase, wine bottles and the cellar.

A vase, wine bottles and the cellar.

 

After we saw that pottery exhibition, the tour was set to have lunch.

Jill and I aren’t big fans of Beijing Chinese food.  It is usually quite greasy and very oily.

It tastes like the food is quite slimy and the vegetables don’t have a lot of flavor.

Since we tend towards vegetarian, it makes our choices quite limited or very expensive since the imported veggies and fruits cost so much more than the domestic products.

Since we’ve both been to Turkey before, we knew that we were in for a wonderful meal every time we sat down to eat and we weren’t disappointed.

The very cute restaurant we went to had a nice balcony overlooking the valley but the owners told us to sit inside since the bees were flying around outside and they’d bother us.

We took their advice and ordered our food.

Our group consisted of our friends from Colombia, three women from Holland, and then us.

Our guide, Sukru, took off and we all just hung out, eat and discussed our lives.

The food, as we guessed, was fantastic.

Jill’s main course was mushrooms with cheese on top of it and mine was a clay pot full of veggies in a red sauce.

And, of course, to top it off, we had baklava for dessert.

As we left, we realize that the wine cellar for the restaurant was dug out of the walls, just like our room back at our hotel.

 

Day 520 In Beijing: Blue Tour In Cappadocia, Sultan’s Ceramics Making A Vase.

 

A true artist throwing clay on a kick wheel.

A true artist throwing clay on a kick wheel.

 

Jill and I continued on the tour and, as we neared the end of it, they led us into a room with a man sitting at a potter’s wheel.

He smiled kindly and our guide informed us that he was going to show us how the vases were made and give us a little show.

I’d write more but the video really speaks for itself.

And for the artistry, and utter joy, of the man throwing the clay, kicking the wheel, and making a vase.

It is worth the time to watch it all the way through.

 

Day 517 In Beijing: Blue Tour In Cappadocia: Sukru Scaling The Steps.

 

Jill, Sukru and me on our tour.

Jill, Sukru and me on our tour.

 

Sukru was our guide on the blue tour and did an amazing job.

He was getting married about 2 weeks after this tour and felt his joy and excitement as he told us about his life.

He had also lived outside of Turkey, for a few years, and spoke some Spanish.

It is always nice to meet up with other travelers, who understand how magical this world is, and want to see it as much as we do.

As Sukru showed us the little handholds that go up to the third level, he gave a small demonstration of how they would climb up.

Realize that this is about 10-15 feet, straight up, and they were monks.

I would guess they weren’t wearing robes, but maybe they were, and that would make it even more impressive.

There is a second way to go up, but one has to climb to the second floor first, and I’m guessing they would use this to save time, and if being attacked, be able to escape, as quickly as possible.

It would also be easy to defend from above because anyone coming up would be unable to protect themselves and be slowed by the armor, swords, and other gear.

I was tempted to climb up and see how difficult it would be and then realized we are hours away from a hospital and common sense took over my ego.

For that, I’m thankful.

 

Day 516 In Beijing: Blue Tour In Cappadocia. Pasabaglari.

 

As if from another world.

As if from another world.

 

The tour Jill and I were in moved on to Pasabaglari, or Monks’ Valley, as it is known in English.

This is a small area, on the outskirts of everything, where monks used to live, and I guess, thrive.

There are two really interesting points of this little area that caught my imagination.

The first is that the monks would basically climb up, inside man made shafts, inside the fairy chimneys.

These weren’t angled passages but totally vertical pathways that had little niches for their hands and feet to find purchase.

Think about this: They would basically free climb, at full speed, or they’d slip down.  It would be very hard to hang out and take your time since the holds are so tiny.

This also allowed them to escape attackers, and make it very hard for attackers to follow them, as the weight of gear and weapons would make it prohibitive.

The second is that one of the fairy chimneys looks like Frank from Donnie Darko.

If you’ve never seen Donnie Darko, it is one of my favorite movies and deals with alternate realities, time travel, and is absolutely confusing beyond belief while also being utterly magical.

Frank is, without giving too much away, a 6 foot tall bunny rabbit who informs Donnie that the world will end in about 28 days.  It is an amazing movie that balances the idea of someone who is either mentally ill or perfectly sane.

It is a must see.

Actually, both the fairy chimney and the movie are both must sees.